Instructions to make your own blowgun!!

Custom Blowguns



Here we are going to discuss how to make hunting grade blowguns. Some people simply don’t appreciate the usefulness of these weapons. Unfortunately, the blowgun has been drug through the mud, landing in a sea of primitive weapons that only exist in a toy box to most people. A quick search on the internet will bring you pages upon pages of wire dart shooting blowguns designed for nothing more than target shooting in your home. These simply aren’t going to cut it, so it is time we all were reintroduced to one of the most effective game collecting silent weapons ever invented.

Let’s get started:

Supplies:

6’ ½ inch electrical conduit (be absolutely sure it is straight)
Epoxy or gorilla glue (epoxy preferred)
PVC pipe fitting for mouth piece, pick one that fits your mouth nicely
Camo spray paint (See the rifle painting page for instructions)
Electrical tape
Fine grit sand paper

Darts:

1/8 dowel rods
#11 Exacto knife blades
Thin sewing thread
Epoxy
3x5 index cards


The supplies for the pipe can be found at most decent hardware stores (they will have the equipment needed to cut your pipe to 6’), and the supplies can be found at most craft or hobby stores.


#1

First things first, we need to apply the mouth piece. This is quite simple. Rough up the pipe with fine grit sandpaper, and rough up the inside of the mouth piece. This will allow the surfaces to bond better. Next, be sure the pipe fits into the mouthpiece snuggly. If it is too small, use the sand paper to expand the hole, just be sure to do it evenly to avoid any leaks. If it is slightly too big, use the electrical tape to widen the pipe to allow for a tight fit. Once this fit is established, apply epoxy lightly to the pipe and slide the mouthpiece over it while keeping the pipe flush with the back of the mouth piece. Allow the mouth piece to set before continuing, it should only take a minute or two. Hold it in place to ensure an even fit. Next, apply a liberal amount of epoxy to the backside of the mouthpiece where it meets the pipe. You want a relatively thick wall of epoxy here. Once that has dried, you should apply a slightly thinner coat on the opposite side. This will be a significant hold, so long as you don’t use the mouth piece to nail in any stakes.


#2

Once the mouth piece is hardened (24 hours), you can sand the mouth piece to remove any sharp edges. This will be necessary for extensive shooting, and to maintain good form.

#3

Once the mouth piece is completed you must test the pipe. Ball up some newspaper and stuff it into the pipe. It should be snug, but not so tight that it is impossible to blow out. Now blow the paper out with as much force as you can. Your mouth should stay in the proper place, and air should not be able to escape out of the corner of your mouth. If it does, you either need to modify the mouth piece or you need to change it all together. When the paper exits the pipe, there should be a “pop” from the compressed air escaping behind the paper.

#4

Now is the time to camo your pipe. Naturally, if you are just using the pipe for fun shooting or the occasional backyard squirrel this will not be necessary. However, if you plan to use this to hunt or as a survival tool, you will want to break up the hard line it gives off. You can refer to the “paint your rifle” page, or you can simply use a shadow pattern. To do the shadow pattern, put a base coat on the pipe. With your next color, wrap it around the pipe like a barber’s pole. This is an effective method.

#5

Now it’s time to make the darts. This is the long, tedious, monotonous part. I usually do this while watching TV, or a familiar movie to break the boredom.

First you need to cut the dowel. I have found a dremel to be the most useful tool for this, but you can use a hacksaw blade in a pinch. Cut the dowels 8”-10” in length, but try to cut them all the same length so the ballistics remain constant. Next, cut a slot in the center of one end of the dowel. This will house your broad head. Make sure the cut is no longer than the neck of the blade.

Next, put epoxy on both sides of the neck of the blade and slide it into the slot. If you are using a hacksaw blade, you may have to pres both sides of the dowel together to get a good bond. Allow to dry enough to work with, then start wrapping your thread. You don’t want it to be to bulky, so start at one end and finish on the other, only using enough to cover the dowel. When finished, put a layer of epoxy to cover the thread.

Now we will make the flight. First, roll a 3x5 card into a cone and place a piece of tape on the fold to hold it in place. Next, put a coat of epoxy on the lower half of the cone. Now, rub a felt tipped marker on the inside of the pipe, then immediately place the cone inside the pipe and spin it gently. This will mark your trim line. Once trimmed, clip the tip off the cone, making a hole just large enough for the dowel to pass through. Pass the dowel through the BACK on the cone, down until there is about a centimeter of dowel sticking out into the cone. Now fill the back of the cone with epoxy up to the tip of the dowel and allow to dry. Next, wrap thread starting just below the flight, then up the flight slightly and coat with epoxy. This method will produce an excellent, durable dart.

Your finished product should look something like this (except this one has no thread on the flight):





Here is some proof of its effectiveness:







Now that you have your pipe and darts ready, it is time to learn how to shoot them. First, place the mouthpiece up to your mouth. Place your dominant hand near the mouthpiece to control its placement on your mouth. Next, place your other hand a comfortable ways down the pipe, just be sure to keep your arm directly below the pipe for the proper support.

Now, take a deep breath, use your diaphragm. Exhale explosively, but not in such a way that you move the pipe off its target. Your cheeks should stick out.

To aim, don’t concentrate on the end of the pipe, this will never work. Instead, concentrate on the target. This will take some practice, but this is the best way to make consistently accurate shots. Once you’ve mastered this, you’ve got an awesome tool!




It is your responsibility to know the law in your state. Most states don’t allow blowgun hunting, and the ones that do tend to not mention it in their regs. A few bad apples can take this sport from all of us, so lets not ruin it.

As stated, most states that allow blowgun hunting don’t actually state that they do, and if you ask a warden he will tell you no because he really doesn’t know the answer.

I have discovered a loop hole!

Many states allow the use of air guns for hunting, and they are specifically mentioned in their regs. Air guns are usually restricted to small game or non game species, but this is just fine for me.

Straight from Webster himself:

1: a gun from which a projectile is propelled by compressed air
2: any of various hand tools that work by compressed air

This means that a blowgun must be an air gun, as a projectile is propelled by compressed air. Here in Texas, I called a game wardens office to ask about the laws regarding this type of hunting. He obviously had no clue, so he simply told me you can’t do it. I didn’t like that, so I looked up the definition of air gun (since texas allows airguns for non game species on private land, yet doesn’t specify what exactly an airgun is) and found that definition. This time, instead of calling, I shot them an email. Their response was that I could kill all nongame or non native species with a blow gun on private land, to include hogs and mountain lions (don’t try that!). I then printed that email and I now carry it with me everywhere I go. I would suggest that everyone that is interested in this present it to their state in such a fashion, then carry the response with you at all times. Don’t trust the wardens to be familiar with the laws regarding blowguns.

Don’t forget, these things make great fishing tools as well for small fish like bluegill, as well as frogs! Simply make a longer dart, put some notches in the dart to help prevent it from coming out of the fish, then tie off a length of fishing line to the dart, and slide the dart into the pipe backwards. Spot a fish, shoot it, then pull it in. Remember not to shoot a fish too large though, unless you are confident you can make a brain shot. Again, know your laws.





Send me a PM if you are interested in purchasing your own blowgun. Paypal only. Once payment is cleared work begins on your very own professionally made blowgun!! Within 3 weeks you will be able to start decimating your local varmint population silently!

Wow, that's all I can say. Probably the best How-To for blowguns I have seen on the net. I will be making one of these this weekend. If it doesnt work out I damned sure will be buying one.

Ive been wanting a blowgun for a while. How many animals have you killed with this thing?

WOW!!! Talk about some top notch blow guns I am going to try to make one myself but like Skwerlhader said if mine doesn't work out i will be wanting to purchase one.

Sounds excellent! I've been looking for new methods of varmint eradication. I think I'll buy one; don't want to mayo it up.

I've killed more than I can count. Had a guy that bought one from me drop a large opossum with one shot to the heart too, so they are good for more than just squirrels and birds.

Look at what it does to a sealed coke can at 10 yards:



Went through both sides.

Any pics of the blowgun itself?

Here are some of my break down model with realtree hardwoods camo:

Yep, that's sexy.

That is cool looking. Have you had any squirrels run off into someone elses yard?

That's a good question there. If a squirrel is shot with a pellet there is a chance that it wont be noticed that it was killed by someone, but if it has an 8 inch dart sticking out of it it will be pretty obvious.